Why did you decide to become a fashion designer?
I didn’t decide, somehow I believe I was born to do this. Literately, as I came out of the womb, I grabbed the scissors from the doctor and wouldn’t let go. My mom thought I would become a hairstylist. In retrospect, since I remember as a child, it came very easy to me when learning to make things, like knitting and embroidering, I remember making a stuffed giraffe and for Mother’s day, little trinkets and loving it. Also, growing up in Germany, I saw a lot of the kids wearing pretty dresses and pants that I could’t afford, but since in school they gave us sewing lessons among other things, I learned very quickly. I starting making my own clothes. Luckily, in those times, they taught children to make and do different things and slowly you fell into what you’d later become. Later, when I moved to New York, my friends would tell me I should be a designer. And that’s when it all really started.
We love your style. It’s eclectic and fresh. What is most rewarding about being a fashion designer?
Being able to use your own creativity and realizing that other people appreciate your work more than yourself. Or when you excited about new things you want to create and other people also sees your vision and get excited with you.
We can see the vintage in your design. What inspires you to create this style?
I fell into vintage long after I was designing my own lines. When I discovered vintage and realized the often found workmanship and uniqueness of each piece which inspired me to find pieces that were in disrepair. I hate to see anything unnecessarily wasted and often I will see a piece of a garment, a trim, part of a dress that I want to use for my existing piece. I also have a desire to salvage some piece of history, even if it is just one simple ribbon. As my designs evolved so did the aesthetic of my pieces, incorporating and inspired by timeless pieces.
Salvage history. That’s a good description. Reusing vintage materials is like ensuring history survives. Are there any particular materials you love working with?
I love most of the natural fabrics, but my number one is silk. I will, however, sometimes mix it with synthetic fabrics, like lace tulle or new innovative fabrics. Also, of course, all the trims like flowers, ribbons, velvet, fringe, old jewels, feathers or anything I think will work with the aesthetic that I am going for at that moment. Leather is also one of my favorites that I have mixed with silk, just to give it a little bit of an edge.
The mix works well. It’s evident in your designs. Describe your approach to design. What is the process?
I have different ways, depending sometimes if someone asks me to make something, I may then extend from there and design a whole mini -collection. I also get inspired by fabrics I see and an idea is born. The first thing I do is sketch it out, since I am a huge collector, I go shopping in my own studio to add to the new design. Then I start making the pattern and sometimes I will change the design as I am making the pattern or sewing it, until it is completely done, with every detail in place including the label.
You make all your dresses to order. Do you find this a challenge?
I do make some to order, since my clients live locally it is easy because they have fittings, the challenge arises when someone is distant, since sometimes they do not know how to measure themselves. However, I do already sell some one of a kind garments as a size medium with all the measurements listed, I just have to find that customer who will fit into them. Exactly like when you sell vintage clothing, which is whatever size it is, and sell it like that.
Are there any particular designer your admire most? Why?
There are quite a few, Giambattista Vali for their last collection, which were inspired by lace frocks, mod looks combined with flowy sheer organza ruffles. Del Pozo for their flowy soft romantic sheer looks mixing with structured pieces displaying voluminous details. Dior, who doesn’t love Dior, and Rodarte, for their detailed romantic looks.
What do you think of vintage fashion moving forward? Do you see it as a trend or something more?
I think Vintage has always been the inspiration for many designers. Vintage is getting hotter as time moves on and is not just a trend. It is a force to be reckoned with. The past is always coming into style in one way or another.
Any future projects in the works?
Many, but I need to focus and prioritize. For now, I have a lot of beautiful ‘corsettery’ that I will be working, making them with flowy dresses. I have a lot of embroidered pieces to transform into dresses. That’s all I can tell you now.
OK, we must wait and see! We know it will be fabulous! Any advice for up and coming fashion designers?
Sure, it is always good to know every facet of the fashion industry especially if you go out on your own. Besides the basics; sketching, pattern making and sewing, which is very important, use your imagination and don’t be afraid to showcase it. Somebody out there will love your design.
Carnelian Red Knit dress
Photographer: Cindil Ashley Photography
Model: Twigglet
Make-up: Katie McGarrow
Copyright Ryder Makeup Labs LLC
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